Rediscovering Chardonnay
Over the last few months, I have been drinking a lot of chardonnay from France as well as a number of select wines from Oregon and Washington. As a result, I am starting to realize what a wonderful variety this is when cultivated and crafted in a style that effectively reveals the beauty inside this captivating grape.
I subscribe to the notion that chardonnay's beauty is best expressed when fermented in stainless steel or used oak barrels. In fact, there is nothing that turns me off more than an over-oaked, syrupy, high-octane chardonnay. My preference in these wines ranges from the clean, crisp style found with the young Chablis I've drunk, to the softer, richer texture experienced with the white Burgundy opened at my table.
With this frame of reference in mind, I have been seeking similar styles of winemaking amongst Oregon and Washington producers. One of the most captivating wines tasted to date has been the Domaine Drouhin 2007 Arthur Chardonnay Dundee Hills, which was made in a style combining fruit fermented in stainless steel and oak. We also enjoyed a bottle of St. Innocent 2007 Chardonnay Freedom Hill Vineyard, another Oregon wine that was fermented in used oak.
Unfortunately, I have yet to find a Washington chardonnay that comes close to the quality with the fruit grown and winemaking style practiced in Oregon. My assessment seems to be consistent with that of Paul Gregutt, who in a recent post proclaimed: "the chardonnays of Oregon, I would propose, can certainly rival the best produced anywhere in the country." In this same column, Gregutt calls out several Oregon chardonnays that will definitely be added to a growing list of wines to be opened at my dinner table.
How about you? What Oregon or Washington chardonnay wines have you enjoyed recently? Please leave a comment to share your favorites, as I am eager to discover new chardonnay wines produced in a style consistent with my taste preference.
Related Links
The Oregon Chardonnay Alliance
The Wine Commentator's Chardonnay Recommendations
Drink What You Like's "Oregon Chardonnay?"
WSJ's "The Chardonnay Conundrum"



